La Rochelle (10/9)

Vendée window in the chapel
on Mont des Allouettes

La Rochelle was on the agenda for today, stopping first in the village so that Allan could buy more phone credit. We tried yesterday, but he didn't have the paperwork to help with understanding what was wanted. At least we got it going again.

We had another stop on the way at the Mont des Allouettes,  There were at one stage seven windmills on this hill, and today there are just two left, one of which still launches its sails and turns.  During the war in the Vendée the movement of the opposing troops were measured from the windmills, and there is a small chapel (commenced in the 19th century, but only recently completed) with some beautiful stained glass commemorating this event.

La Rochelle is a port town, and has been for centuries. It was founded in the tenth century and by the twelfth century had become prominent. When Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henry Plantagenet in 1152 it became part of England. It was a stronghold of the Knights Templar, a centre of Huguenot activity, and suffered through the many wars between the French and the English, and of course the conflicts between the many French factions over the centuries. Part of “The Three Musketeers” is set around the seige of La Rochelle.

Self-drive electric cars for hire by the hour

We had a few problems parking when we arrived because most of the usual parking areas were in the process of being turned into a marquee city for an international sailing regatta to be held next week. Having finally found one we walked along the waterfront for a little way and found a restaurant for lunch.  On the way there we passed two little electric vehicles which were available for hire in the same way as bicycles are available for hire in many cities - you pay a fee and take one and then return it to any other station in the system.  Except that they are very small, that could become quite convenient.  We have seen a similar system in Paris, so the idea is spreading.

Another excellent meal

The meal was excellent (most of our meals in France were) and, to walk it off, we headed for the old harbour city of La Rochelle. This took us past the most amazing marina of boats we have seen. It was vast - forty-eight finger docks each with about 20-30 yachts moored to them. Despite the breeze we could hear very little rattling of lines against masts, so they obviously tighten everything up before they leave their boats.

Masts everywhere - sailing anyone?

Further up the river, the old harbour entrance is guarded by a castle and tower. In medieval times, a chain was drawn across the mouth of the harbour between the castle and the 'chain' tower to control the shipping into, and out of, the harbour, especially at night. The wall along the harbour is relatively complete and looks impressive as you approach from the seaward side except for a ghastly boatshed which has been built in front of it. I think the mayor must have been in on the planning, because it really should never have been allowed. (The mayor in France wields an awful lot of power, not like ours.) We walked the walls, then wandered into the medieval part of the city. It is unusual in that many of the arcades over the pavements are still intact. No walking in the rain whilst shopping here!

Looking into the inner harbour.
The chain was stretched between the two towers.

Louis-Marie and Danielle have spent a number of family holidays here, so they were familiar with the town. L-M wanted to show us the monumental staircase in the town hall, but it was undergoing restoration work. He tried to talk his way in but wasn't able to, so we had to give that a miss. He goes a lot of effort to make things happen for us which we really appreciate. It was a very warm day so ice creams were consumed, then we walked to the aquarium (too late to make going in worthwhile - unfortunately) before wandering back to the quay to catch a ferry back to the car. (The ferry was powered by electric motors which seem to be the way it is done in France). It was only a short walk to the car, then we were on our way home after a great day. Danielle provided us with a lovely supper before we headed off to bed. We'll have to go to La Rochelle again another time when there isn't a conference about to happen and explore it a bit more.