Agrigento (20/9)

We only had time for dinner last night, and no time to explore the town, let alone another temple complex almost within walking distance of our B&B, so we asked our landlady if we could stay another night. Allan went for a run this morning and saw that there was plenty that would interest us which prompted our decision. As we left to explore the temple site, I asked if our landlady knew where the nearest laundromat was. She didn't have a clue, but offered to do it for us. Her helper would hang it out for us, so I went and quickly collected up what we had and handed it over. It was placed outside our door not long after we arrived back, all folded.

The Temple of Concordia - the most complete

We drove down to the temple complex, Valle dei Templi (Valley fo the Temples), because it was forecast to be 35ºC today, and we didn't really feel like the long walk back up the hill in the heat. Although called "Valle", the temple complex (there were seven temples in all) actually runs along a ridge, and can be seen for miles in three directions. The Greeks certainly knew how to pick a site to impress. There was a small Classical Greek colony here in the 7th century BC, but with an influx of Greeks from Gela the population grew quickly and the city prospered. Due to this increased prosperity, it was able to afford to build temples. The 6th and 5th centuries BC was the height of the Greek period on Sicily. These temples and those at Selinunte were built in the same era. 

Only the outline of other buildings can be seen on the ridge
between the temples.

Not all the temples were built for religious purposes - some were dedicated to particular deities, one was built to celebration a victory over the Carthaginians, and others for specific purposes like weddings (the Temple of Juno) or for those citizens seeking a cures for ill-health (the Temple of Ascletius). The Temple of Concordia is the most complete temple in the Agrigento complex, perhaps due to its later conversion into a Christian basilica in the 6th century AD. Several of the temples had a number of their columns still standing, but others have all but disappeared, not helped by the fact that they were used as quarries in the late 1700's to build the new Porto Empedocle on the coast not far from Agrigento. It seems that all Greek cities in Sicily had turbulent and inter-related histories, fighting between themselves as often as fighting the Romans and Carthaginians. All three ancient Greek cities we have so far visited had fought each other. Some cities tried to forge alliances with the overseas powers in an effort to gain an edge over their Greek rivals, but at great cost to themselves. By the end of the Roman republic in 27 BC, Agrigento benefited by being the only market town left in southern Sicily. 

Coffins were dug into the bedrock
either side of the walkway

During the early Christian Era, a part of the fortified walls along the “valley” were turned into a necropolis. Tombs were dug into the bed rock the walls were built on which have created problems over time because these have eroded and the cliff edge is now crumbling down into the valley below. There is a also a small catacomb dug into the bedrock near the Temple of Concordia. 

There were many pots such as this in the
museum.  Most of the work was very skilled.

Despite the heat, we walked the length of the site, and then up to the museum which displayed many of the finds from archeological work carried out around Agigento. This was extensive, and well-laid out, but most of the labelling was in Italian, again. We know we are in Sicily, but this is a World Heritage Site and is a top tourist attraction, so we think a little more could be done to encourage people to learn more about what they are looking at. 

In Agrigento - he biggest cactus we've ever seen

From the museum we had a hot walk back to the car. We drove back to our B&B and decided to rest for a bit, and re-hydrate before exploring the town. We spent a little time walking the steep streets of Agigento, poking our heads into a couple of churches before settling on somewhere to eat. Jill decided to have seafood as it is a Sicilian specialty, and we were on the coast. Guided by the waitress, she ordered swordfish, and claimed it was delicious. It was only two thin slices of fish wrapping up a stuffing of breadcrumbs and herbs and probably some more ground up fish. Whatever it contained, she was impressed. We walked back down to our B&B. Even though it is often after 10.30pm when we are returning to our hotels we have never felt uncomfortable walking about at night, probably because Sicilians are still out and about. They will walk into a restaurant at 9.30pm for dinner, and almost laugh at the tourists who want to eat earlier.